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| Service manual? | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Aug 27 2016, 09:06 AM (378 Views) | |
| Munkee | Aug 27 2016, 09:06 AM Post #1 |
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Earl
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Hi all, Just wondered if there's a service manual and/or check list for the 604 that anyone knows of? I've had my bike standing for a long time, and had to remove the carb for a bit of fettling (choke plunger was all gunned up, which as ever kick started a whole series of fettling!). I took the bike for MOT yesterday morning. As a side story, the best 'motorbike Friday' I've done in a while - 604'd to work in the morning to drop off for MOT, ride home at lunch and come back on my BMW R100 for another MOT :). Massive contrast, in that the Beemer is smooth and significantly more civilised, where the CCM pulled wheelies and had these things called 'brakes', which is at odds with the R100... Anyway, the 604 was bloody awful to start, ran lumpy, popped, farted and generally was hard work to ride. It would tick over so to keep it running I had to keep revving constantly to keep it running. I figure the carb probably needs a good setting up (it was never perfect before), and I know it needs a new throttle cable (adjusted to fullest extent at both ends and still a bit loose). I also need a choke cable as I has to cut the old one off. I just wondered if there was a manual or at least check list of service items and settings I could work to. I've got the rotax manual, so figure: Timing Valve clearances Oil (not long since done and new filter, but it is leaking from somewhere) Carb set up (bit of black magic to me at this point) Ait filter (got a K&N but it's in bad shape, so a new one wouldn't be a bad thing) If anyone has any advice on carb setting, it'd be much appreciated (I'll be reading through the forum to do research too). I want to go back to doing some ATRC events (still got my 2013 number on the front, needs an update), so looking to get a reliable setup with good bottom to mid range. Any help/advice mucn appreciated 🙂🙂🙂 |
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| lahauteur | Aug 27 2016, 09:32 AM Post #2 |
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Rider
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Carb info I found previously from this forum Dellorto Gasket set: 52544-77 Needle: K32 Needle jet/atomiser: 268DR Float needle valve: for the 604 is a 300. Main jet: 175 standard for 604, 185 for a 636? Fit 185 for aftermarket cans on a 604. Idle/Pilot jet: The CCM factory said that they fitted a 32 idle jet purely to get it through emissions, but to get the thing to run right it needs a 40 idle jet. Choke jet: If it is a 60 put a 47 in. It will start and idle on choke then whilst you put your gear on etc., something they never do standard. Settings on the Rotax carb are absolutely critical especially the float height which should be 17mm. Put the aftermarket can on, up jet to 185 main and drill the airbox, try needle second richest, one groove up from the pointy end, set idle mix 1.5 - 2.5 turns out On a 40 pilot 2.5 turns out should be enough, but if 3.5 works then it’s all good! Be sure that the slide is sitting home (closed) with slack in the cable before adjusting the idle speed. If the slide is raised on the cable to achieve tickover the idle circuit is bypassed, this will make it a pig to start and you will never get the idle mixture correct. Worth checking the throttle cable for free play when the idle screw is wound all the way out. 1. Set idle slightly high (so it won’t stall, with bike fully warmed up) 2. Wind mixture screw in till engine starts to hunt/ go fluffy 3. Wind screw out, counting the half turns as you go, till engine again starts to hunt/go fluffy. 4. Set the screw half way, i.e. if you counted 3 complete turns out (between fluffy in and fluffy out) screw in 1½ turns, that then will be your optimum setting for the mixture screw. |
| 2001 Rotax 640e Supermoto and 1998 350 Enfield Bullet. | |
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| lahauteur | Aug 27 2016, 09:33 AM Post #3 |
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Rider
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Oil change, again found on this forum, sorry I don't know who to credit. Oil Change 1, Make sure you have a good mineral oil 15/40 (Semi will do, I use it) you will need an oil filter, and a replacement fibre washer for the magnetic sump plug CCM part 250-010 it is an 18mm o/d 12mm i/d fibre washer. How to do it... 2, Remove the oil filler plug from the top of the frame between the fuel tank and headstock 8mm Allen key. 3, Remove the front drive sprocket cover (two 5mm Allen screws) this exposes the cover plate for the oil filter. 4, Remove the sump bash plate if you have one (DS models) it is held on with four nuts and bolts (5mm allen/13mm nuts) yes it is a bit awkward. 5, Place an old drain oil can under the frame and remove the frame drain plug (13mm a/f) situated below the engine on the nearside frame rail be quick to move your drain can under the jet of oil that is shooting from the frame onto your knee oh yes have plenty of rags handy! 6, Remove the magnetic drain plug from the sump again move your drain can under the oil pouring onto the floor. 7, Remove the oil filter cover plate via the 3 5mm Allen screws and catch more oil..... remove the old filter, give the housing a wipe out then push in the new filter .... refit the cover plate. 8, Make sure you have re-fitted your frame and sump drain plugs..... even more oil on the floor is usually a good indicator you have forgotten one. 9, Measure out 2 litres of oil and slowly fill the frame using a long flexible funnel don't rush it to avoid airlocks. 10, Leaving the long funnel in place I turn the motor over a dozen times on the kick-starter (ignition off) to circulate the oil round the filter etc. and remove any air (you will hear big glugging noises from the filler whilst hand turning the engine. 11, Pour another 1/2 litre in, refit the filler cap "important" don't run the bike without the filler cap in place...more oil on the floor! Run the bike for five minutes switch off check the oil level at the sight tube on the nearside of the headstock just below the filler, sight tube should be half full after you have turned the engine off...top up a bit at a time and repeat the running/sighting procedure. 12, Now spend at least an hour cleaning the oil off the garage floor! Top tip..... put some plastic sheet down before you start! Addendum regarding frame bleeding: - Pre 01 bikes (grey frame) weren’t self-bleeding frames and could airlock if you filled them with oil too quickly. Post 00 bikes (black frame) were self-bleeding and you can fill them as quickly as you can pour oil through the filler. Basically the oil is stored in the spine of the frame and the l/h frame tubes, with the black frames CCM put a breather hole from the front frame spar back into the spine, this meant that the air could escape as you filled it and wont airlock. The glugging described in (10) above is simply the airlock releasing. |
| 2001 Rotax 640e Supermoto and 1998 350 Enfield Bullet. | |
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| Munkee | Aug 27 2016, 12:32 PM Post #4 |
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Earl
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That's spot on thanks - I'll check timing and valve clearances while I'm there and hopefully that'll be me running in a relatively lump free manner. With a bit of luck it'll get a few more miles from a tank too - it hadn't been so great previously. |
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| Monty | Aug 27 2016, 12:38 PM Post #5 |
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Charlie Big Banana's
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The float heigh is also critical for decent running, 17mm being setting that works fine. |
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If it aint sharp I can play with it My Utube Channel, lots of bike vids here. Subscribe if you likehttp://www.youtube.com/user/choppermark?feature=watch
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| Munkee | Aug 27 2016, 07:33 PM Post #6 |
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Earl
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I did change the float recently (there was a reason it had to come out, and the pin was jammed so had to be cut out and replaced). I'm in the middle of moving house and needed both bikes through MOT so I can get them to my new place. If I'm honest, I dropped the new one in and bolted it all back together in haste amongst the rest of the chaos - sounds like I need to go back a couple of steps and try again properly! |
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| lahauteur | Aug 27 2016, 07:48 PM Post #7 |
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Rider
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That will be it then. |
| 2001 Rotax 640e Supermoto and 1998 350 Enfield Bullet. | |
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| Munkee | Aug 28 2016, 06:26 PM Post #8 |
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Earl
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Thanks for the advice guys - I messed with the carb today and managed to get it running fairly sweetly. Not been for a test ride as yet but will hopefully get round to it tomorrow. I noted that the air mix screw had very little effect at all, so wondering if I maybe gave an air leak somewhere that's helping to compensate - will see how it goes on a quick ride out. |
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