| Welcome to CCM MaD. We hope you enjoy your visit. If it's your first time here please make your first post in either the 'Welcome' or 'Chat' section so we can verify your account quicker, untill verified your posts will need to be manually approved before they show, please be patient. Join our community! If you're already a member please log in to access all of our features: |
| removal of paloli head stock bearings | |
|---|---|
| Tweet Topic Started: Oct 15 2012, 10:02 PM (787 Views) | |
| sullivj | Oct 15 2012, 10:02 PM Post #1 |
|
Viscount
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Firstly, apologies to anyone who knows how to do this. I'm not trying to preach, just help someone who, like me, didn't really have a clue how to do this. Set aside a couple of hours and that should cover it. Should anyone need to replace their head bearings in the future, here's my 'how to for my 604 supermoto 2000 (grey frame)' Jack up he bike, so that the front wheel is off the ground. Remove the front wheel by taking out the spindle from the RHS (as you sit on the bike). You will need to undo the speedo drive cable before you can take the wheel out completely. ![]() Remove the two bolts that hold on the brake caliper (shown with hex driver in place) ![]() Remove the brake line clip and take off the fork protectors. ![]() Remove the headlight and if you need to, number up the connections so you can plug them back in later Remove the mudguard, handlebar controls, handlebar and headlight, labeling and connections that you'll forget about later: ![]() Then undo the four nuts on sides (2 each side) of the top yoke and four nuts on the side of the bottom yoke, that will allow the forks to slide down and (if you've jacked the bike enough), drop out of the bottom of the yokes. Undo the central 30mm central nut, which will allow you to remove the top yoke: ![]() Undo the notched nut with a C ring spanner (if you have one), which will expose the bearing and allow the bottom yoke to drop out. ![]() Lift out the rollers from the top: ![]() And the bottom ones will be stuck the shaft. ![]() You then need to remove the outer bearing casings from inside the frame. Ideally, you'll have a puller for this. I didn't, so ended up taping them with a long metal rod from the other end of the frame. Make sure you tap them out evenly and don't get them 'wedged'. ![]() Eventually, you'll get one out of the top and one out of the bottom ![]() Then you'll need to remove the rollers and outer casing from the bottom of the shaft. This wasn't easy as mine was rusted on. In the end, I cut off the rollers and cage with a dremel and then cut a very small slit in the uper ring of the casing. This enabled be to get a screwdriver into the slot and tap the bearing to rotate it on the shaft. That broke the rust seal, so I was then able to tap the casing, gently up the shaft to remove it. When I'd got it off, I cleaned up the yoke and shaft in readiness for the new bearings:
|
![]() |
|
| sullivj | Oct 16 2012, 08:41 PM Post #2 |
|
Viscount
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
Just back in from the garage, I've made some good progress. I used Stevo's excellent idea to set the top casing in line with the frame: ![]() You can see here, that they need to go down a bit further: ![]() So, I re-rigged it slightly, put the old rollers in place and drove it home before checking the edge with a digital caliper to make sure it was properly seated. ![]() Then I did the same for the bottom casing. Next, I drifted the new bearing onto the shaft with a brass drift and small hammer and made sure that it was sat properly on the bottom yoke. Then it's just a case of starting to put it all back together. Dont forget the washer that sits on top of the top bearing. Of course, you'll need to grease the bearings and shaft too. I inserting the wheel spindle to make sure it's all lined up and true before its tightened up: ![]() For future reference, the ones I took out, were stamped: Rubber L44643 RS Bearing 446431 The new ones are stamped as Rubber L44643 Bearing 44600LA So, as I thought would be the case, I could have got two of these bearings for £8.50 each, when I paid £57.55 for a pair from CCM.... Oh well :rant: http://www.thebearingcompany.co.uk/product...id_product=5498 Or £2.25 each from here: http://www.akbearings.co.uk/product.asp?P_ID=768 :rant: :rant: :rant: The new tyre has arrived, so that will go for fitting tomorrow and the re-test is booked for Monday...! |
![]() |
|
| tommysdad | Aug 15 2015, 08:20 PM Post #3 |
|
Earl
![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]() ![]()
|
I found it easier to cut through the old bearing race with an angle grinder and use this to gently tap the new ones in place. This video shows how and has few workarounds and good tips. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_Ozfh93CvBs |
![]() I'm a man with a fork in a world of soup | |
![]() |
|
| « Previous Topic · How To Guides · Next Topic » |





![]](http://z2.ifrm.com/static/1/pip_r.png)



















2:45 PM Jul 11