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| Ccm 640e rotax oil leak!; Oli from head | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jul 13 2012, 04:54 PM (1,624 Views) | |
| Daveypies | Jul 13 2012, 04:54 PM Post #1 |
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Commoner
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Hi, new to the forum. I have just bought a 640e rotax and I only managed to get it home from picking it up when I noticed oil all Over my left leg and foot. I took it to a garage who initially said the head gasket had gone but obviously there is no gasket in the rotax engine. Now they are saying they have to take the swing arm off to get engine out fully so they can change the oil seals and want to charge me 8 hours labour (£500) to do this. Does this sound right? Or are they ripping me off? Any help would be appreciated, maybe you have had similar symptoms? Thanks. |
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| Monty | Jul 13 2012, 06:41 PM Post #2 |
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Charlie Big Banana's
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The head will come of in the frame, to take engine out I'm sure the swinger has to come off, Which oil seals are they supposed to be changing? The head has no gasket but has 3 "O" rings, which are sold in the for sale section if needed. to get the head off, remove the bracket on the head, starter motor, rocker covers, the front engine bolt and lower engine bolt, the whole engine will rotate forward, giving enough room to remove head, obviously the cam belt and covers will have to be removed, also lock the engine in tdc, using longer bolt through the engine casing, remove short one first under cam belt casing. I may have forgot something, buts about the gist of it, I'm sure someone will add what I forgot sounds hard but fairly simple if youi know what you are doing. or return it and say not fit for purpose, as last owner had obviously ommited to tell you about the leak, or get him to pay for it. |
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If it aint sharp I can play with it My Utube Channel, lots of bike vids here. Subscribe if you likehttp://www.youtube.com/user/choppermark?feature=watch
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| Mad Cow | Jul 14 2012, 09:16 AM Post #3 |
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Earl
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As Monty has pointed out you can remove the head in situ using the method he describes. And yes the swing arm does have to come out to remove the engine as the rear engine bolt is also the swing arm pivot. And be warned it's an absolute bitch the get the engine back into the frame, it just doesn't seem to want to fit. I recently chatted to Si Pavey who rode a Factory CCM 604 in the 1998 Dakar Rally. He was impressed when I said it took me an hour to get the engine in, he said it often took much longer. He told me that at the factory they had a special jig that stretched the frames to install the engines :rolleyes: In addition to Monty's instructions you obviously have to remove the exhaust and undo the jubilee clips on the carb inlet and part the carb and inlet stub. You might need to loosen the chain or just hook it off the sprocket/s to allow the engine to pivot forward, mine didn't have the chain on when I did it so i'm not sure. If I remember correctly the head is still a tight fit to remove but it doesn't need to come right off, you just lift it up as far as you can and there is just enough room to change the o rings. |
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Tony (aka Mad Cow) http://madcowracing.blogspot.com
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| Cuz | Jul 15 2012, 12:50 PM Post #4 |
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God
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Also remove all electrics in the way,coil horn,amplifier box when taking head off. If taking engine out of frame get rid of the footpegs, brake assembly and kickstart as well. I can get an engine in and out of the frame in seconds when everything is removed, the aim is to get the engine tipped on its side. I wrote the whole procedure down last time I did it and I'll dig the notes out and post up on here. The swinger on the other hand always causes me grief when refitting and when it finally goes back in I can never remember how I did it. Ideally the small o ring on the head should be coated with loctite 574 but I once did it without using that without any issues,I just usually use it 'cos it says so in the manual. |
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| Cuz | Jul 15 2012, 12:59 PM Post #5 |
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God
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p.s. the engine locking bolt has to have a point ground on the end |
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6:56 PM Jul 11