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R30 carb set up; jetting
Topic Started: Mar 4 2012, 10:54 AM (1,219 Views)
burty98
Knight
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i`ve got a 2003 R30 (suzuki lump) i bought it not long ago it came with a DD race can fitted standard air box and 150 main/27.5 pilot jet it runs ok but has a mad surge of and on at the very top end in 4th and 5th more noticeable than any other gears have fitted new plugs gaped at 0.8 previous owner fitted new coil ive checked all obvious like leads,plug caps,wiring etc tried drilling side of air box and tried with and without foam air filter fitted but cant shift this surge up top.
was going to try a 170 main opened up air box and maybe 1 notch richer on the needle any other suggestions on the best possible set up or jet size etc would be great :chin:
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Monty
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Charlie Big Banana's
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The suzzy lump does NOT like the air box opened up, just the lid removed

150 mains and 27.5 jets are fine, you have fitted them correctly as people have fitted the mains in place of the choke jets, this causes running probs

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I would once jets are checked and are ok, raise the needle 1 clip to second from bottom

Have you checked and set the TPS

needs to be set at 76%

TPS Adjustment
(Missfire and Under Powered?)

If you think things are not right, before taking your carburettors apart check the Throttle Position Sensor, I always thought mine was ok as factory set and never gave it a thought, all you need is a multimeter, basic instructions are here. There are 3 pins in the unit; measure the resistance in k ohms across the 2 outside pins, a reading of between 3 to 6 k ohms should be seen. Make a note of what it says, get a calculator and work out what 76% of that figure is.

i.e., outside pin resistance 5.23 k ohms ----76% of =3.97 (add your own reading)
Hold the throttle fully open and measure between the top and middle pin, the reading should be 3.97, if it is not slacken the 2 screws and move till the figure is the same as what you worked out.

Your ignition timing should now be correct; you may have to remove the tank to access the pins better.

From the 4 sets of carbs I've seen, the TPS has always been mounted in the centre of the slots, which for quickness sake means they will all run but may possibly not be exact.

If it aint sharp I can play with it
My Utube Channel, lots of bike vids here. Subscribe if you likehttp://www.youtube.com/user/choppermark?feature=watch

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burty98
Knight
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thanks for the info bud just in middle of playing with carbs needles we`re already set at point no4 diaphrams seem ok if a little weak no probs with the jets all in the right place i`m lead to believe theres a stupid petrol filter inside the brass inlet pipe on the carb does this pipe unscrew to access the filter for removal i don`t wanna start twistin it if it does come off that way think i`m gonna hang on now for the 170 main jets to arrive off fleebay and give them a shot or do you think this may be too large i think remus supply a 185 main with their can :chin:
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Monty
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Charlie Big Banana's
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the filter is obvious once the fuel pipe is removed from the brass pipe, it sits just inside the pipe.

170 seem way too big. my 710 with flowed head and cam only has 162.5's

But then you have made holes in the airbox, all you will be doing is giving money to the government.
If it aint sharp I can play with it
My Utube Channel, lots of bike vids here. Subscribe if you likehttp://www.youtube.com/user/choppermark?feature=watch

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burty98
Knight
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many thanks bud gonna stick the 150`s back in ive coverd up drilled holes so will see whats what when it`s back together had a look no filter inside end of brass tube gonna remake HT leads off again to be sure they are connected to the caps properly also get my test meter back off my pal and check the TPS in the week do you know the best air filter to use K&N don`t seem to list one for the R30 at the mo it`s just got a foam filter fitted :dirtbike:
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Monty
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Charlie Big Banana's
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RC 2600 fits the CCM suzzy

Foam filter is fine if cleaned and oiled properly, they have been know to colapse when giving the beans so some have made a wire cage to fit inside
If it aint sharp I can play with it
My Utube Channel, lots of bike vids here. Subscribe if you likehttp://www.youtube.com/user/choppermark?feature=watch

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burty98
Knight
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my filter running dry at the mo could that have much affect :chin:
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Monty
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Charlie Big Banana's
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No matey, dry is better than none, but small foreign objects may get through and score the bore,

Just remove and pour engine oil on it, work it all over then wring out and refit. Thats what I use, you can get proper foam filter oil which is sticky but its a bugger to clean later,

I have a KN fitted and use the KN cleaning kit now
If it aint sharp I can play with it
My Utube Channel, lots of bike vids here. Subscribe if you likehttp://www.youtube.com/user/choppermark?feature=watch

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burty98
Knight
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just been out and tried it still same runs great through mid range all way up to last 5 or 10% of throttle then starts to surge next step is to check the TPS is does sometimes hesitate for a split second and hover a few hundred revs high before returning to idle so you just never know failing that im gonna kick the living crap out the thing and see if that helps :D thanks for your time bud you`ve been a star :worthy:
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Monty
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Charlie Big Banana's
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setting the tps correctly when mine farted and popped at high revs cured mine

Just sharing the love :dirtbike:

If it aint sharp I can play with it
My Utube Channel, lots of bike vids here. Subscribe if you likehttp://www.youtube.com/user/choppermark?feature=watch

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burty98
Knight
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looks like the surge is down to 5th gear slipping bud took it out today and when it started to surge i put some pressure on the gear lever and the surge stopped so looks like more than just setup so it`s out with the checkbook and in with lots of overtime :o
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