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| Rotax oil change, How to....... | |
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| Tweet Topic Started: Jan 31 2012, 04:19 PM (3,672 Views) | |
| Monty | Jan 31 2012, 04:19 PM Post #1 |
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Charlie Big Banana's
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1, Make sure you have a good mineral oil (Semi will do, I use it) you will need an oil filter, and a replacement fibre washer for the magnetic sump plug CCM part 250-010 its an 18mm o/d 12mm i/d fibre washer. How to do it... 2, Remove the oil filler plug from the top of the frame between the fuel tank and headstock 8mm Allen key. 3, Remove the front drive sprocket cover (two 5mm Allen screws) this exposes the cover plate for the oil filter. 4, Remove the sump bash plate if you have one (DS models) its held on with four nuts and bolts (5mm allen/13mm a.f. nuts) yes its a bit awkward. 5, Place an old drain oil can under the frame and remove the frame drain plug (13mm a/f) situated below the engine on the nearside frame rail be quick to move your drain can under the jet of oil that is shooting from the frame onto your knee oh yes have plenty of rags handy! 6, Remove the magnetic drain plug from the sump again move your drain can under the oil pouring onto the floor. 7, Remove the oil filter cover plate via the 3 5mm Allen screws and catch more oil..... remove the old filter, give the housing a wipe out then push in the new filter .... refit the cover plate. 8, Make sure you have re-fitted your frame and sump drain plugs..... even more oil on the floor is usually a good indicator you have forgotten one. 9, Measure out 2 litres of oil and slowly fill the frame using a long flexible funnel don't rush it to avoid airlocks. 10, Leaving the long funnel in place I turn the motor over a dozen times on the kick-starter (ignition off) to circulate the oil round the filter etc and remove any air (you will hear big glugging noises from the filler whilst hand turning the engine. 11, Pour another 1/2 litre in, refit the filler cap "important" don't run the bike without the filler cap in place...more oil on the floor! run the bike for five minutes switch off check the oil level at the sight tube on the nearside of the headstock just below the filler, sight tube should be half full after you have turned the engine off...top up a bit at a time and repeat the running/sighting procedure. 12, Now spend at least an hour cleaning the oil off the garage floor! top tip ..... put some plastic sheet down before you start! Addendum regarding frame bleeding: - Pre 01 bikes (grey frame) weren’t self bleeding frames and could airlock if you filled them with oil too quickly. Post 00 bikes (black frame) were self bleeding and you can fill them as quickly as you can pour oil through the filler. Basically the oil is stored in the spine of the frame and the l/h frame tubes, with the black frames CCM put a breather hole from the front frame spar back into the spine, this meant that the air could escape as you filled it and wont airlock. The glugging described in (10) above is simply the airlock releasing. |
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If it aint sharp I can play with it My Utube Channel, lots of bike vids here. Subscribe if you likehttp://www.youtube.com/user/choppermark?feature=watch
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| BDR | May 8 2017, 07:44 PM Post #2 |
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Commoner
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Thanks Monty That is just what I needed to know. Does anyone have a guide on safe max RPM for my 604E 2001. |
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| stevenfuture | May 10 2017, 02:35 PM Post #3 |
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King
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BDR dont rev your Rotax past 8.000rpm to often..... as there have been reports of crank casing cracking, but its hard not to let it slip over I know as they like a good old rev but keep it below 8.000 & all should be sweet also Monty is A God when it comes to CCM's both the crappy Suzuki & the Mighty Rotax, so if he says it then its the best way of doing it. |
| Testiculos habet ingens et bene sedeant | |
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2:45 PM Jul 11